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Paper Savings Bond

A paper savings bond is a Series EE or Series I savings bond issued as a physical certificate rather than as an entry in a TreasuryDirect account. Paper is a legacy form that Treasury no longer sells, and a paper bond is never paid automatically: nothing happens until the holder presents it.

Last reviewed by Steven Fox, CFP®, EA on

Quick Summary

  • Treasury issued paper EE bonds from 1980 through 2012, and paper I bonds were available until January 1, 2025. Holding one now is ordinary, not a problem.
  • Electronic bonds are paid automatically at the end of their 30-year life. A paper bond is not, so an unpresented certificate simply stops earning and sits there.
  • A paper bond must be cashed for its entire value. Partial redemption is available only on electronic bonds.
  • Converting paper to electronic is optional. Treasury says outright that you can cash paper bonds just as they are.
  • A bond that is lost, stolen, destroyed, mutilated or never arrived is replaced on FS Form 1048, and the replacement is electronic.

Definition

A paper savings bond is a United States savings bond held as a printed certificate registered to a named owner, as opposed to an electronic bond held as a book entry in a TreasuryDirect account. The paper form is historic rather than defective: Treasury sold paper Series EE bonds from 1980 through 2012, some of them badged as Patriot Bonds between 2001 and 2011, and paper Series I bonds were available through a federal tax refund until January 1, 2025, after which TreasuryDirect states that I bonds are "only available electronically." A paper bond keeps every right an electronic one has. What it does not have is anyone watching it, which is the practical difference that shapes everything else on this page.

Advanced Explanation

The single most consequential difference is who acts at the end. TreasuryDirect's EE and I bond pages both put it in two sentences: "Electronic EE bonds: We pay automatically when the bond matures (if you haven't cashed it before then). Paper EE bonds: You must submit the paper bond to cash it." An electronic bond that reaches the end of its 30-year interest-earning life is redeemed by Treasury without anyone asking, and the money lands in the owner's account. A paper bond in a drawer reaches the same date, stops earning, and then does nothing at all until someone finds it and presents it. The tax consequences of that gap belong to the savings bond final maturity page, and they are the reason the gap is worth closing rather than tolerating.

Cashing a paper bond happens in one of two places, and the bank route has conditions the customer has to ask about. TreasuryDirect's instruction for cashing at a bank is to contact a bank where you already have an account and ask three questions: whether they will cash your savings bonds, how much they will cash at one time, and what identification or other documents you need. Banks vary in how much they will cash at once, and in whether they cash savings bonds at all. The alternative is to send the bonds to Treasury with FS Form 1522, and TreasuryDirect states that if the value of the bonds being cashed is more than $1,000 the signature on that form must be certified. Treasury imposes no limit on the value or number of bonds cashed at one time. Two constraints apply whichever route is used: an EE or I bond cannot be cashed at all in its first 12 months, and cashing before five years forfeits the previous three months of interest.

A paper bond is all or nothing. TreasuryDirect states it twice, in the conversion guidance and in the cashing guidance: "You can cash your savings bonds in full or in part. (Paper bonds can only be cashed in full.)" and "You cannot cash part of a paper savings bond. A paper savings bond must be cashed for its entire value." A holder who needs some of the money and wants to leave the rest earning has to convert the bond to electronic form first, or cash it and reinvest what is left over.

Converting to electronic form is optional, and Treasury is unusually blunt about the misconception. From its conversion page: "Some people think they have to convert their paper bonds to electronic bonds in order to cash them. Not true. You can cash paper bonds just as they are." What conversion does change is custody and automation. Treasury's own list of reasons to convert is that electronic bonds cannot be lost, stolen or destroyed, so there is no need to pay for a safe deposit box or a fireproof safe; that they are paid automatically at the end of their 30-year life; that they can be valued and managed at any time; and that they can be cashed in part. A converted bond keeps its ownership, its maturity date, its interest rate and its interest payment schedule, and converting a bond that is still earning is not a taxable event. Two mechanical notes: the conversion runs one way, since Treasury will not turn an electronic bond back into paper, and its instructions say not to sign the back of the bonds when submitting them for conversion. Converting a bond that has already stopped earning simply causes Treasury to cash it, with the proceeds going into the no-interest Certificate of Indebtedness in the account.

A lost or damaged bond is replaceable, and the replacement is electronic. TreasuryDirect's guidance covers a paper bond that is lost, stolen, destroyed, mutilated, or that never arrived. The holder can ask for a replacement, which will be an electronic bond in a TreasuryDirect account, or ask Treasury to cash the bond instead. Either way the instrument is FS Form 1048. The one-year minimum holding period normally applies to the cash option, though Treasury says it may waive that where the problem arose from a disaster. And the replacement extinguishes the original: once Treasury has replaced or cashed the bond, the paper certificate belongs to the United States government rather than to the former owner, and Treasury asks that a bond found afterwards be returned to it.

The search route for a bond you suspect exists but cannot find has changed, and older guidance is now wrong. Treasury retired the tool it used to offer for this. Its page states: "As of September 30, 2025, the Treasury Hunt tool is no longer available. If you suspect you have an unredeemed lost, stolen, or destroyed United States Savings Bond, please visit treasurydirect.gov/savings-bonds/forms/ for guidance on how to submit a claim." So the current route runs through the claim forms rather than through a search box. A bond that was reported and remitted to a state under its abandoned-property law is a different matter again, and belongs to the unclaimed property page.

Where to keep one, and the two agencies happen to disagree in an instructive way. The FDIC's guidance on safe deposit boxes lists "U.S. Savings Bonds that haven't been converted into electronic securities" among the good candidates for a box, alongside birth certificates, deeds and car titles. Treasury's conversion page lists not having to pay for a safe deposit box or fireproof safe as a reason to convert instead. Both are right about their own question. If the certificate is going to stay paper it belongs somewhere secured, and if the point is to stop worrying about the certificate at all, conversion removes it.

How to Remember

Electronic bonds have somebody watching the calendar. Paper bonds have you.

Used in a Sentence

“Clearing out her mother's filing cabinet, Renata found four paper savings bonds issued in 1998 and used the Savings Bond Calculator on TreasuryDirect to work out what each was worth before taking them to her bank.”

How It Works

For a holder with a certificate in hand, the sequence is short. Find the issue date printed on the bond and check what it is worth with TreasuryDirect's Savings Bond Calculator, which exists for paper bonds specifically. Decide whether to cash it, convert it, or leave it. To cash it, take it to a bank where you have an account after asking that bank's three conditions, or send it to Treasury with FS Form 1522. To convert it, open a TreasuryDirect account, establish a conversion linked account, and follow the submission instructions without signing the backs. A tax form follows either way: if a bank cashes the bond the bank is responsible for getting you a Form 1099-INT, either when you cash it or by the following January, and if Treasury cashes it the 1099-INT arrives the following January.

A hypothetical showing when the signature requirement bites. Ana holds two paper Series EE bonds, each currently worth $620, and decides to send them to Treasury rather than take them to a branch. The combined value of the bonds she is cashing is $620 plus $620, which is $1,240. Because that exceeds the $1,000 threshold TreasuryDirect states for FS Form 1522, her signature on the form has to be certified rather than simply written. Had she sent only one bond, $620 would have been under the threshold and no certification would have been needed. The redemption values here are invented; the threshold is Treasury's, and the form itself sets out the certification requirements in detail.

Pros and Cons

Pros

  • A paper bond carries the same rights as an electronic one. It is a legacy form, not a defective one, and it can be cashed exactly as it is.
  • No account, password or online access is needed to hold it, which matters for an owner who does not want another login.
  • It can be found. A certificate in a filing cabinet is discoverable by an heir in a way that an unmentioned online account is not.
  • Lost, stolen, destroyed and mutilated bonds are all replaceable on one form, and a bond that never arrived is covered by the same route.

Cons

  • Nothing is paid automatically. Treasury redeems electronic bonds at the end of their 30-year life and leaves paper bonds to the holder.
  • It can only be cashed in full, so there is no way to take part of the money and leave the rest earning.
  • Cashing at a bank depends on that bank's policy, since banks differ in whether they cash savings bonds and in how much they will cash at once.
  • The certificate is a physical thing that can burn, flood or be stolen, and protecting it means either a secured place to keep it or the cost of one.
  • Replacement converts the holding to electronic form, so a holder who wants to stay on paper cannot replace like with like.
  • Treasury's own search tool for suspected unredeemed bonds was retired on September 30, 2025, so tracing one now means submitting a claim.

People Also Asked

Answers to the most frequently asked questions.

Can I still cash a paper savings bond?
Yes. TreasuryDirect gives two routes: a bank where you already hold an account, after asking whether it cashes savings bonds, how much it will cash at one time and what identification it needs; or Treasury directly, using FS Form 1522, with a certified signature if the bonds are worth more than $1,000. Treasury places no limit on the value or number of bonds cashed at once, while banks commonly do.
Do I have to convert my paper bonds to electronic to use them?
No, and Treasury addresses the misconception directly: "Some people think they have to convert their paper bonds to electronic bonds in order to cash them. Not true. You can cash paper bonds just as they are." Conversion is a choice about custody and automation. It keeps the bond's ownership, maturity date, rate and payment schedule, is not a taxable event while the bond is still earning, and cannot be reversed.
Will anyone tell me when my paper bond stops earning?
No. Treasury pays electronic EE and I bonds automatically at the end of their 30-year life, and states that a paper bond must be submitted to be cashed. A paper certificate left in a drawer simply stops earning on its date and waits. That is also why the date matters for tax, which the savings bond final maturity page covers.
What do I do about a lost or destroyed paper savings bond?
File FS Form 1048, which covers a bond that is lost, stolen, destroyed, mutilated or never received. You can ask for a replacement, which will be issued as an electronic bond in a TreasuryDirect account, or ask Treasury to cash the bond. Once it has been replaced or cashed, the original certificate belongs to the United States government, and Treasury asks that you return it if it turns up later.
How do I find out what a paper bond is worth?
Use TreasuryDirect's Savings Bond Calculator, which is the tool built for valuing paper bonds; electronic bonds show their current value inside the account instead. You will need the series, the denomination and the issue date, all of which are printed on the certificate. Note that the issue date is the first day of the month in which the bond was bought, which is not always the date someone remembers buying it.

Sources

AdviceOnly maintains high editorial standards to improve the quality and accuracy of our educational content. Content is written with the assistance of artificial intelligence tools following a rigorous quality assurance process, and periodically reviewed by credentialed and experienced human financial advisors. References used include government data, academic papers, interviews with industry experts, and reputable primary sources. You can learn more about our efforts to produce accurate content in our editorial policy.

  1. U.S. Department of the Treasury (TreasuryDirect). "EE bonds."
  2. U.S. Department of the Treasury (TreasuryDirect). "I bonds."
  3. U.S. Department of the Treasury (TreasuryDirect). "Cash EE or I savings bonds."
  4. U.S. Department of the Treasury (TreasuryDirect). "Converting EE or I paper bonds to electronic bonds."
  5. U.S. Department of the Treasury (TreasuryDirect). "Get help for lost, stolen, or destroyed EE or I savings bond."
  6. U.S. Department of the Treasury (TreasuryDirect). "Treasury Hunt."
  7. Code of Federal Regulations. "31 CFR Part 353 — Regulations Governing Definitive United States Savings Bonds, Series EE and HH."

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